Ten Ways to Make A Tree Love You

by Ronald E. Rothhaas Jr.
The Arbor Doctor

1. Select for four-season appeal.

We are commonly attracted to plants because of pretty flowers or fall color. However, often these characteristics are only present for a week or two out of the year. Selecting for characteristics which are present for longer periods can greatly improve the curb appeal of your landscape and the view out your picture window.

Crabapples are great small trees with four-season appeal. However, some can be very insect and disease prone. Below are recommendations from Ohio State University Extension. These cultivars would be especially resistant to problems:

* 'Adirondack'. One of the few outstanding crabapples with narrow upright tree form. Clean foliage, orange-red fruits, and showy white flowers. Excellent autumn foliage and fruit combination of reds and oranges. 15 foot.

* 'Excalibur'. Symmetrical globe-shaped tree form. Golden yellow fruits maturing to cider colors are ornamental in the fall months. Petite white flowers and fruits lining branches are outstanding features. 10 foot.

* 'Holiday Gold'. Rounded to open tree form. Golden yellow fruits with red blush attractive early fall to late winter. Consistent white blooms. 18 foot.

* 'Louisa'. Outstanding weeping form with graceful arching branches. Soft pink flowers. Fruits are a golden orange color. 12 foot. Other crabapples that are spreading-weepers but not as much true weepers include 'Anne E', 'Molten Lava', 'Mary Potter' and 'Candymint'.

* 'Prairifire'. Rounded to open tree form. Consistent stunning display of coral-pink flowers. Attractive glossy green foliage with a purple tinge. Purple fruits are ornamental from late June to early December and are paired with orange fall color of spur leaves. 18 foot.

* 'Red Jewel'. Upright oval tree habit with outstanding cherry red fruits that are highly ornamental little mini-apples all the way into early spring. Snow white flowers. 15 foot.

* M. sargentii. This species is a spreading dwarf type to 8-10 feet. Excellent petite white flowers and attractive scarlet fruits. Effective landscape use is to plant in groups of three.

* 'Sargentina'. Smaller yet variation on the Sargent crabapple, growing to 4-5 feet in height with dainty white flowers and attractive red fruits.

* 'Sugar Tyme'. Good rounded overall form, but the flower and fruits are the main attractions. Sugary white mass of blooms consistent from year to year followed by showy apple red fruits that are ornamental well into the winter months.

For more information:

OSU Fact Sheet -Deciduous Trees and Shrubs With Winter Interest

OSU Fact Sheet - Hawthorns In The Landscape

2. Match the plant with the site.

Gardening expert Denny McKeown is fond of telling callers that there is a reason white pines are called eastern white pines and not midwestern white pines. White pine, hemlock, and rhododendron are favorites of many gardeners. However, these plants are native to the cool, moist forests of the Appalachian mountains where soils are acidic and well drained. It is important that we take the cultural requirements of trees and shrubs into account. When we plant rhododendrons, white pines, and hemlocks in our heavy, poorly drained, alkaline clay soils, we are setting ourselves up for disappointment.

For more information:

treesaregood.com - Tree Selection

treesaregood.com - Trees and Turf

OSU Fact Sheet - Functional Uses Of Plants In The Landscape

3. Buy healthy, quality plants.

It may seem like a bargain to buy close-out or discounted plants. However, if a plant is damaged before you obtain it, it may be slow to recover. In some cases it may never recover. Check tree root balls for loose burlap or exposed roots. Trunks should not be scratched or damaged. If the tree looks wilted or stressed, you may be buying a headache. Ask questions and be sure what you are buying is healthy and ready to take root.

For more information:

treesaregood.com - Buying High Quality Trees

4. Dig wide planting holes and plant no deeper than it was growing in the nursery.

It pays to give a plant a good start. Dig holes which are at least twice as wide as the root ball. However, do not dig the hole any deeper than the root ball. Digging deep holes means you will have loosened soil under the root ball. When this soil settles the tree will lean. However, digging a wide hole allows you to backfill with loosened soil which will allow easier root growth. This soil may be amended with material such as well-aged compost or pine nuggets. Such amendments should make up no more than 30% of the backfill with native soil making up at least 70% of the backfill. If "good*" or replacement soil is put into the hole as backfill at greater than 30% in heavy clay soil you will create an impermeable flower pot which will fill up with water and kill your tree.

For more information:

treesaregood.com - Tree Planting

OSU Fact Sheet - Root Problems On Plants In The Garden And Landscape

5. Remove synthetic burlap, twine, etc.

The Arbor Doctor has had the unpleasant experience of seeing many trees through the years with twine girdling trunks, burlap shedding water away from roots, and wire staking material strangling tree trunks. When planting a tree, burlap should be pulled away from the trunk and cut off the top third of the root ball (synthetic and treated burlap must be totally removed). Any rope or twine should be removed from the trunk. Trees actually develop stronger trunks and root systems if not staked. If a tree must be staked it must be done with rubber hosing or nylon strapping which will not cut the bark. Do not use wire, rope, or twine. Be sure the binding is loose enough to allow some sway.

For more information:

Penn State University Dept Of Ag - Creating Healthy Landscapes

6. Mulch lightly and keep equipment away from the trunk.

A good quality mulch helps to keep even soil moisture and temperature, as well as enhancing beneficial biological activity. Unfortunately, the road to failure is paved with good intentions. Many mulches are applied “hot”. They are poorly aged and the rapid decomposition emits damaging heat as well as robbing nitrogen from the soil. High wood-carbon content mulches are problematic. Fungi grows on some of these mulches called “shotgun” fungus which shoots black spores onto siding which are almost impossible to remove. Heaping mulch against a trunk like a volcano is potentially deadly. The Arbor Doctor’s favorite mulches are pine bark and pine needles. The Arbor Doctor’s mulch philosophy: quot;The worse it smells, the worse it is!"

For more information:

treesaregood.com - Proper Mulching Techniques

OSU Fact Sheets - Mulching Landscape Plants

OSU Fact Sheets - Mulches For The Landscape

7. Water during dry weather.

Adequate moisture is important, but too much can be as bad as or worse than too little. Clay soil is slow to accept water and slow to dry out. A tree or shrub generally needs 1 inch of water every 10 days. If natural rainfall provides that, then don’t water. If natural rainfall falls short, water 1 inch every 10 days. Provide this water in one watering, not several small waterings. Measure the inch in a coffee can or rain gauge. Also, measure natural rainfall. Don’t assume your house got what the airport got. Don’t water on a set schedule. Natural rainfall doesn’t follow a schedule and you should not either. Sprinkler systems which come on daily are costly to water bills and plant health.

For more information:

NC State University - Watering Shrubs

Morton Arboretum - Watering Trees And Shrubs

8. Inspect often for diseases and insects.

At one time, tree care companies would go out a couple times a year and spray everything to kill all the pests which might kill or injure the trees. Not only was this not always effective, but it killed beneficial insects. Materials used at that time lasted for months and therefore could move from the area sprayed into waterways and the ecosystem. Some species such as the Bald Eagle were pushed to the brink of extinction by these treatment and usage practices.

Today, materials decay much faster and therefore do not build up in the environment. Furthermore, we now know that fewer than 1% of all insects are harmful and many are beneficial. Therefore, treatment and maintenance programs emphasize inspection and treatment when and if populations warrant control. While this approach is much better and environmentally sound, implementation requires vigilance and knowledge.

Inspect your trees and shrubs. Ask questions. Seek the assistance of a professional such as the Arbor Doctor. Above all, don’t assume all insects are bad. Even if you find holes in the leaves, this will not likely harm the tree. Sometimes the most harmful insects are those which seem the most innocent.

For more information:

treesaregood.com - Plant Health Care

University Of Kentucky - Intergrated Pest Management

Tree And Shrub Pest Management

9. Avoid trenching and adding fill soil.

Through the years the Arbor Doctor has gotten many calls to look at trees which have been hopelessly mutilated by construction. Sadly, these trees often take years to decline and die. Since the damage has already been done, any treatment options may amount to locking the barn door after the horse has escaped. Don’t let this happen to you.

Roots radiate outward from the tree’s trunk, generally extending well beyond the branch spread. 90% of roots are generally in the top 12 inches of the soil. Trenching near a trunk, even 12 inches deep, may sever half the root system. Construction traffic crushes and destroys roots. Fill soil may smother roots and cut off supplies of moisture and oxygen.

Preservation of trees during construction requires professional oversight. Preservation is best accomplished from the very beginning planning stages for construction. Remember, one new tree can cost several hundred dollars, will go through several years of transplant shock, and will take years to mature. The extra cost of professional oversight required to save your trees will pay dividends many times over. Contact the Arbor Doctorfor a consultation

For more information:

University of Missouri - Preventing Construction Damage To Trees

NC State University - Tree Damage

10. Practice natural target pruning.

Pruning correctly means the difference between a tree which will experience proper wound closure and a tree which may experience years of problems. Flush cutting is not correct and pruning paints are ineffective. See the links below for instructions on making a proper pruning cut.

For more information:

TLCfortrees.info - Natural Target Pruning

University Of Arizona - Pruning Deciduous Shade Trees

Penn State University - Pruning Landscape Trees

The Arbor Doctor is your prescription for tree health